Sintra, Tomar, & Lisbon Portugal

Travel Day - 30 September 2022 - Nashville to DC to Lisbon

A Lyft ride to the airport with a friendly driver named Larry who got me there on time. The plane departed for Washington, DC on schedule, but then Hurricane Ian had other plans, and what started as a six-hour wait turned into seven. I wandered around for a while and had a late lunch at &Pizza, which was decent for airport food and thankfully did not cause traveler’s diarrhea. After sitting at the gate for far too long, I signed up for Priority Pass and went to the Turkish Airlines Lounge. It was a nice diversion, but the lounge was packed and I’m not sure the $32 USD for access plus the $99 yearly fee was worth it. Later, I upgraded my Capital One credit card to the Venture X, which includes Priority Pass access, entry to Capital One Lounges, and the standard benefits of Visa Infinite Cards.

Sintra - 1 October - Landing in Lisbon, Trains, Metros and Checking Into the Guesthouse

The plane landed a little late in Lisbon. After going through passport control and getting stamped into the country, I found a Vodafone kiosk and got a fifteen-day unlimited data SIM card. €15 for unlimited data is a decent price.

I stopped at a café called My Bistro to get my bearings and grab a bottle of water, then headed to the Areoporto metro station, bought a Viva viagem card, and loaded it with €30 credit. I took the Vermelho (red) line to the Oriente station, then accidentally bought a train ticket I didn't need.

Once I found the platform for Sintra, I waited for the train and got on. Arriving at Sintra, I headed straight for the Chalet Saudade Guesthouse. The suite was amazing: a sitting room that could double as a second bedroom, and a balcony with views of Sintra and the ocean in the distance. Since my room was ready, I unpacked, took a shower, and then went to the Café Saudade for a late lunch. This would become my regular breakfast spot for the stay, and the food at the café was excellent. After lunch, I walked down to the garden. Very nice.

That evening, there was a rather well-fed yellowish-orange cat sitting on the stone table out in the garden.

Sintra - 2 October - The Moorish Castle, Pena Palace, and Pastéis de Natas

I woke up early and got myself ready. At the café for breakfast: boiled egg, croissant, yogurt with fruit, ham and cheese, tea, and orange juice. This would become my standard morning routine, minus the boiled egg. After breakfast, I headed to the ScotURB 434 bus stop at the train station and boarded the bus. Getting off at the Moorish Castle, I was greeted by a lovely stray cat, who happened to be looking in exactly the direction I needed to go.

The castle had just opened for the day, so there were very few people there. I walked around the outside walls and saw some amazing views overlooking Sintra and into the sea. Then up to the Pena Palace, which is surrounded by a large nature park. Rather than take the transfer bus from the main entrance, I walked up. It is quite a climb, but the palace is remarkable, especially the mythic artwork inside. After going through the castle, I stopped at the gift shop for some cards and a bottle of water, then took a stroll through the park to the High Cross, which had yet another excellent view.

From there I walked down to the valley of the lakes, which was genuinely beautiful. Then I got on the bus back to the historic city center, found a Pastéis de Nata shop and got a box of six and a breaded chicken sandwich for lunch, and headed back to the hotel. Later that evening I went out for a stroll through Sintra. It was a nice walk.

Sintra and Cabo da Roca - 3 October - The Quinta da Regaleira and Cabo da Roca

I arrived at Quinta da Regaleira and sat for a while, talking with a couple from the US before somehow managing to be the first person through the gate. Since I had already bought my tickets, I went straight to the pre-purchased ticket line and was first through, followed by a younger couple from Germany. The three of us made a beeline for the Well of Initiation, and on the way I spotted another cat. I was the first person to enter the Well that morning, which meant unobstructed views from the top all the way down. At the bottom, I walked through the tunnel to the outside and came out into the sun. At the exit there is a small water fountain with a pool and stepping stones, which unfortunately you can no longer walk on because they've become too slippery. I walked through the beautiful gardens, amused by the faces carved on the stone plant containers, then down to the cafeteria for lunch and the gift shop for postcards.

After the Quinta da Regaleira, I walked back to the train station to catch the 403 bus to Cabo da Roca. The views were absolutely astounding. The westernmost point in continental Europe, and the ocean just goes on from there with nothing to stop it. After a while, I stopped at the small gift shop for some cards and a magnet, then got back on the bus to Sintra.

That evening, dinner at a great restaurant called Metamorphosis, where I had an eggplant dish that was very delicious. I love eggplant. Sparkling water to drink, as usual.

Sintra and Tomar - 4 October - Travel Day

Up early, bags packed, and ready to check out. Down to the café for breakfast, where they offered a breakfast quiche with ham that was very good. Then to the train station to catch the train to the Oriente station and onward to Tomar. By the time I got to the hotel, my room was ready. That evening I went out for a margarita pizza that was far from what I expected. The basil was dry and crumbly, the kind that comes out of a shaker bottle. But I was hungry and it filled me up. After that, I stayed in and planned the next day.

Tomar - 5 October - Convent do Cristo

Down to the hotel's breakfast area, then back up to the room to grab my messenger bag before heading up to the Convent do Cristo. I walked up the Stairs of Saint James to the entrance and around to the main entrance, where restoration work on the Manueline window is currently ongoing. I was one of the first four people in before the tour buses showed up, which meant good clear views of everything. The main church with the round nave is remarkable: four columns, paintings on the walls and ceiling, amazing statuary. In the center of the columns you can see where a stairway once led down, long since covered over.

After exploring the convent, I exited through the gift shop and picked up more postcards. Then to the castle café for a pastéis de nata and a bottle of water before walking back down the hill and wandering around. Eventually I found a small restaurant called Tabernacle do Rio and had the daily dish, which was cod fish pasta. Very delicious. After lunch, a three-scoop gelato, then back to the hotel to settle in for the evening.

Tomar - 6 October - Church of Santa Maria do Olival and Seven Hills National Park

Breakfast as usual, then back to my room to wait until closer to opening time for the church. I arrived at the Church of Santa Maria do Olival just before it opened and took some pictures of the bell tower. Once inside, the architecture and beauty of the church were striking. Each alcove had a resting place and a statue. The alcove dedicated to Mary Magdalene was particularly beautiful. I spent some time inside before going out to take more photos around the exterior.

From there I walked down to the Seven Hills National Park and saw the statue of Dom Infante Henrique. The park itself was fairly underwhelming. After leaving, I headed back to the hotel to figure out lunch, then went to Insensato Café and Livaria and had a veggie burger that was very delicious. After lunch, I sat in the park next to the Rio Nabão for a while, then walked back up the main promenade to the Praça and back to the hotel for the evening.

Tomar and Lisbon - 7 October - Travel Day

Breakfast as usual, then checked out and headed to the train station. The train was already there, so I hopped on and found a good seat. I arrived in Lisbon and checked in at the hotel, but my room wasn't ready yet. So I sat down at the hotel's bistro and had mozzarella toast with basil, fries, and a lemonade, which was very good. After lunch I went to Bertrand’s, the oldest continuously operating bookshop in the world, and bought a book in Portuguese to practice the language.

Back at the hotel with my room key, I got settled in. Later, after a shower, I went to a restaurant called Kong for dinner. The food was excellent.

Lisbon - 8 October - Sightseeing adventures

Up at the usual time and over to the sister hotel for breakfast. Then I walked to the Santa Justa lift and got some good photos before the crowds arrived. I walked down the street and back up the other side to get to Carmo Convent. At the top of the Santa Justa Lift, more photos before it got too crowded. I sat in the square and waited for the convent to open. When it did, it was just me and one other German tourist, and we could not believe how lucky we were. We went through quickly and took photos while it was still empty. I walked around the ruins and photographed everything, including the pet cat Carlotta. Inside, I saw the exhibitions and bought a pen and some postcards from the gift shop.

After the convent, I took the metro from Baxia-Chiado, the Azul (blue) line to São Sebastio station, then walked to the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum. The museum was amazing. After that, I walked around the Estufa Fria gardens and spent a while there. I love gardens. Back at the hotel, they had just started cleaning my room, so I got a gelato while waiting.

Later, I went to the hotel's restaurant for a strawberry lemonade, then walked down Rua Augusta to the Praça do Comercio and back. Rested for a bit, then went out to Ramen Bambu for dinner: a wonderful tofu ramen with a little spice. Then back to the hotel for the evening.

Lisbon - 9 October - The day of the tower, the Lisbon Marathon, and a late afternoon tram ride

Breakfast, then the green (verde) line to Cais do Sodre and the train for Algés. From there, I walked about 1 km to the Tower of Belém and got some excellent photos. After that, I walked along the promenade to the Monument to the Discoverers, which was also amazing to see before the tour buses arrived. Photos done, I walked back to the Belém train station and took the metro back to Baxia-Chiado. I stopped at the hotel room for a quick shirt change and walked down to the Praça do Comércio, only to find there was a marathon going on. So, lunch at Mil Sobres, where I had another excellent Beyond Meat burger. After lunch, back to Bertrand’s Livaria for another book, this time Aristotle translated into Portuguese.

Then I went to see Livaria Simao, which was closed, but the stairs leading up to it had an excellent mural so I took a photo. Later in the afternoon, I went back down to the Praça do Comércio to wait for the YellowBus Hills Tram. With the marathon still being cleared, it didn't show up until later in the afternoon. Well worth the wait. The tram tour lasted an hour and went all around Lisbon. After that, back to the hotel to recharge before going to Organi Chiado for dinner.

Lisbon - 10 October - Rest day before travel and Rain 💦 ☔️

Up early, breakfast, then a walk down Rua Augusta all the way to the Praça do Comercio. On the way back, I stopped at Mantegaria for a six-pack of Pastéis de Natas. Back at the hotel, I took care of some writing before heading back out for a King Burger at Kong and another gelato. Then back to the hotel.

Lisbon, DC, and Home - 11 October - Travel Day

Up early, bags in order, then checked out and took the metro from Baxia-Chiado to the airport. Got through security, waited for the gate announcement, and boarded the plane for an eight-hour and eleven-minute flight to IAD. I made my connecting flight and eventually landed back home.

Finally, a Lyft ride back home.