Christmas Markets in Brussels, Strasbourg, Nürnberg, and München
Travel Day One - 2 December 2024 - Departure to Brussels 🛫
An on-time Lyft to the airport, a quick TSA Pre-Check, and we were on the flight from Nashville (BNA) to Washington Dulles (IAD) without a hitch. After a brief layover, we boarded the flight to Brussels (BRU).
Once airborne, I tested the inflight Wi-Fi over dinner. Pasta for me, chicken for my friend, both perfectly adequate for airplane food. Total travel time from Lyft pickup to landing in Brussels: 22 hours and 37 minutes.
Day One - 3 December 2024 - Arrival in Brussels
We landed in Brussels in the morning and, after navigating the train ticketing system, made it to Brussels-Centraal station. Dropped luggage at the Hilton Grand Place and headed out into the chilly streets. Lunch was at Fritland: a generous serving of Belgian fries, crispy and golden, with mayonnaise. Exactly what you want after a long overnight flight.
That evening we went back out to the Christmas markets. The Raclette, served with melted cheese, ham, and pickles, was a highlight. The Glühwein left something to be desired. We ended the night watching the Grand Place light show, which was genuinely spectacular.
Day Two - 4 December 2024 - Exploring Brussels
A hearty hotel breakfast, then out to explore. First stop was Mary Chocolatier on the Grand Place for some very good chocolate. We kept wandering through the old town and along the way found another shop, Artisan Chocolaterie Belge, where five bars made their way into the bag.
The wandering eventually led to the Manneken Pis, which was dressed in a fireman's suit that day. We got our photos and kept moving. The architecture in Brussels rewards just walking around without a fixed plan.
Lunch was at Ballekes, known for its meatballs, and they were well worth the visit. Perfectly seasoned, with a variety of sauces. By mid-afternoon the December chill had really taken hold, so we ducked into a Dunkin' Donuts to warm up. Hot chocolate for me, coffee for my friend.
Back outside, we found more of the Winter Wonders Markets. A fried dough ball with Nutella hit the spot on a cold afternoon. On the way back to the hotel, a stall selling macarons was impossible to walk past.
After some downtime, a quick trip to a nearby Carrefour Express for premade sandwiches covered dinner simply enough.
The festive atmosphere of the Winter Wonders market stuck with us through the evening, even if the Glühwein still hadn't improved. By the time we packed up and went to sleep, the holiday markets had done their job.
Day Three - 5 December 2024 - Train to Strasbourg 🚆
Early start for Strasbourg. Brussels-Midi station was a bit chaotic to navigate, but we eventually got on the train and settled in for a four-hour ride through Belgium and France. The winter countryside through the window was genuinely peaceful.
In Strasbourg, we checked into the Le Bristol Hotel and went straight to the markets. The Cathedral Place market was a step up from Brussels, and their orange-infused Vin Chaud was the best we'd had so far. For lunch, the Choucroute: a hearty sausage in bread with sauerkraut, warming and exactly right for a crisp December day.
That evening, the Christmas tree light show at Kléber Place, then dinner at Au Pont Corbeau. The Fleischkuechle, pumpkin soup, and Spaetzle were simple and comforting, the right way to end a full travel day.
Day Four - 6 December 2024 - Exploring Petite France
A slower-paced day. Breakfast, a bit of rest, then out to Petite France. The cobblestone streets and timber-framed houses do look like something out of a storybook. We wandered the Christmas markets and had Spaetzle with mushroom sauce.
A few final market purchases, including cookies from a local stall, then back to the hotel to rest up before the next leg.
Day Five - 7 December 2024 - Train to Nürnberg 🚆
Another early train, this time to Nürnberg. A few delays and some confusion over seat reservations, but we got there and checked into the Park Plaza Hotel. There was a mix-up with the room that the staff sorted out quickly.
Dinner at Hans im Glück was a much-needed proper meal. I had a grilled chicken sandwich with sweet potato fries. My friend had a salad, fries, and somehow also a three-patty hamburger that could have fed several people. The place was loud and full of energy, which was exactly the right antidote to a long travel day.
Day Six - 8 December 2024 - Nürnberg Christmas Market
I was dealing with a pinched nerve in my lower back, but Nürnberg's Christmas market wasn't going to wait. Before diving in, we stopped at a café overlooking the market. A creamy hot chocolate for me while my friend had coffee. A useful pause before the crowds below.
My mission was simple: get Lebkuchen. The traditional gingerbread cookies Nürnberg is known for. I did not hold back; about nine made it into my bag. I would have liked to explore more, but the back had other ideas and I headed to the hotel to rest while my friend kept wandering.
Even with the injury, the old town and the market made it a good day.
Day Seven - 9 December 2024 - Train to München 🚆
Delays and a double-booking of our seats on the train to München, but we made it. Checked into the Boutique Hotel Atrium München and I spent some time recovering. A long bath helped considerably after the journey.
My friend went out for dinner. I stayed in and worked through some of the Lebkuchen from Nürnberg. A quiet evening, which was what the back needed.
Day Eight - 10 December 2024 - Exploring Munich
Munich’s Marienplatz Christmas market was busy and festive. We had non-alcoholic Glühwein and a Currywurst while taking in the decorations and the crowds. I also tracked down a Christmas-themed magnet for my collection.
Dinner that evening at Arkadi, a Greek restaurant. The chicken souvlaki and fries were outstanding, easily one of the best meals of the trip.
Day Nine - 11 December 2024 - Final Day in München
Last full day in Munich. A leisurely breakfast while my friend did final souvenir shopping, then back to the hotel to rest up before the next day's travel.
Dinner at Münchner Stubn was the right farewell meal. Their Bratwurst Skillet with sauerkraut, mashed potatoes, and a variety of sausages was hearty and satisfying.
A good trip, even accounting for the pinched nerve and the train delays.
Travel Day Two - 12 December 2024 - Return to Nashville 🛬
Up early, bags packed, one last breakfast at the hotel. We took a taxi to Munich airport via the FreeNow app. Security and passport control went smoothly.
The flight to Washington Dulles boarded on time. At IAD, the Global Entry kiosks were quick, but the TSA line took about 45 minutes. After a short wait at the gate, the final flight landed in Nashville on schedule.
A Lyft home, and that was that.
Using points from my Capital One Venture X card, I managed to offset some travel-related expenses, which brought the overall cost down considerably.